Nino Negri: Mountain Nebbiolo from Valtellina, Since 1897

Established in 1897, Nino Negri is the premier estate producing wine in the Valtellina DOCG in Italy's Lombardy region. The estate specializes in Sfursat, meaning "strained": a wine made from grapes picked by trained pickers and dried in the cool alpine air. The style combines the opulence of Amarone with the elegant complexity of Barolo.

An extreme landscape

Valtellina sits in the foothills of the Italian Alps near the Swiss border. High-elevation, terraced vineyards make for structured, elegant Nebbiolo. Sheltered from cold northern winds by the Retiche Alps, the valley runs 20 miles from east to west and is bathed in sun all day. Four subzones give their names to the wine typologies made here: Grumello, Sassella, Inferno and Valgella.

Nino Negri owns 76 acres in the most prestigious zones. Innovative techniques such as helicopter harvesting reflect the estate's idea of excellence in extreme viticulture.

Terracing and terroir

The territory is defined by terracing: dry stone walls, built thousands of years ago, support the hillside vineyards. The sandy, silty base is dry, holds little water and is highly permeable. The soil is shallow, and vines often root in the cracks between rocks. The terroir demands 100% manual work, around 400 hours per acre.

The winery is in Chiuro, in the 15th century Quadrio Castle, above underground cellars that hold thousands of barrels. All Nino Negri wines age at least two years before release to reach optimum maturity at bottling.

The greatness of a grape

The sun exposure and wide temperature swings between night and day shape Nebbiolo, the "king of grapes," known locally as Chiavennasca. It prefers sunny areas protected from cold winds and yields low volumes of extremely high-quality grapes. The red wines are robust, long-lived and earthy.

The flagship is 5 Stelle, Sfursat di Valtellina DOCG, made from the best grapes only in the best years. The 100% Nebbiolo is picked by hand in the most acclaimed parts of Valtellina Superiore and dried naturally for 3 months. It is vinified with the red wine method and a long maceration, aged 20 months in new French oak barriques and then rests another 6 months in bottle.

In the glass

Nebbiolo picks up the character of its soil and expresses very different terroirs. High in tannins and acid, the palate shows tar, roses, leather and cherries, with subtle differences in each expression. The wines pair with roast meat dishes and can stand up to spicy pasta like gnocchi al pomodoro piccante.

Find Nino Negri in Eataly wine shops and online.