Valle Reale: Mountain Wines from Abruzzo, Est. 1998


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Nestled in a valley surrounded by mountains in Abruzzo lies Valle Reale. Abruzzo is one of the greenest regions in Europe, with 36% of its surface covered by parks and nature reserves that safeguard the area's biodiversity. The estate is close to the town of Popoli, between Pescara and L'Aquila, about 350 meters above sea level. In 1998, the Pizzolo family decided to restore the old vineyard on the property they had acquired years earlier, and Valle Reale was born.
The working mountain farm encompasses five distinct vineyards: Popoli, San Calisto, Sant'Eusanio, Capestrano and The Convent. Careful observation of the environment and a passion for agriculture led to an in-depth study of the origins of the Montepulciano d'Abruzzo vines found on these sites. Research conducted with Professor Leonardo Valenti of the University of Milan traces the oldest evidence of the grape to uncontaminated mountainous areas near the winery. The mountain climate brings a strong diurnal temperature swing that preserves the freshness and fragrance of the grapes.
The Popoli vineyard has rows of vines in front of the ruins of a grotto-cellar used by Benedictine monks to produce and store wine, dating to the 1300s. The larger part is planted to Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, offspring of the oldest vines on the property, and one hectare is dedicated to Trebbiano d'Abruzzo. Cold air slows ripening, and harvest takes place in early November.
San Calisto is the "father" of all Montepulciano d'Abruzzo at Valle Reale: its buds are grafted and used for new plants in Popoli. The ancient 8-hectare vineyard was planted in 1960 and is trained with the pergola abruzzese method. San Calisto wines are made only in the best vintages, usually from just 4 designated hectares, and production has declined over the years as the vines age. Cold, strong winds and dramatic day-night temperature shifts slow ripening and create wines with high acidity.
Sant'Eusanio rises to almost 500 meters above sea level. This small, 2-hectare vineyard is tucked in among pine woods, with vines planted in 2002 on poor, pebbly soil. The northern exposure creates an extreme microclimate with strong diurnal temperature swings. The Montepulciano is known for bright acidity and freshness, a sharp difference from the body and structure of more traditional styles. An experimental cru of Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo is made here only in the best years: Sant'Eusanio Cerasuolo Notte, harvested at night with a short fermentation. A "Day" version, made with more traditional techniques, has also been produced in recent years, a unique set of twins.
The remaining two vineyards are in nearby Capestrano. The Capestrano vineyard overlooks the plain of Ofena, nicknamed "the oven of Abruzzo." Its soils are notably more solid than the pebbly soils around Popoli, with more clay, and its grapes ripen 2–3 weeks earlier. In 2003, 23 hectares were planted in what turned out to be the driest year of the past century. The lack of water and a fight with iron chlorosis almost devastated the vineyard, and it took five years of commitment and care to bring it to what it is today. Three springs of pure water in this area create the Tirino River, one of the cleanest in Europe. The pristine environment supports a high level of biodiversity, especially indigenous yeasts that give the wines an unmistakable profile.
The Convent, the most recently defined cru, is a 4.5-hectare vineyard where vines and vegetables were once grown together. It is home to the ancient convent of St. Francis, founded by St. John of Capestrano, which holds the religious history of Abruzzo in a rich library of ancient manuscripts and papal bulls. The poor soil is rich in rock fragments with a good portion of clay for water retention, and the southeastern exposure yields Montepulciano d'Abruzzo with power and concentration.
In 2007, the philosophy at Valle Reale shifted toward minimal intervention. They "limit [themselves] to accompanying the wines along the path that brings them to aging in the bottle," letting indigenous yeasts ferment spontaneously, no matter how long it takes. The approach makes wines that let nature speak for itself, where the region's biodiversity can express its full richness.
Stop by your local Eataly or order online to bring home a bottle of Valle Reale.
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