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In some parts of American culture, November 11 (or 11/11) is thought to be a lucky day because of the repeated numbers. In Italy, November 11 is the feast day of San Martino — Saint Martin in English. Like Ottobrate Romane in Rome, it marks the last set of days with an unseasonably warm and mild climate before the cold winter months set in. The celebration comes with knight-shaped cookies, roasted goose, chestnuts and vino novello, among other treats.
Martino was a Roman soldier. One night on his travels, he met a poor man who was freezing and had nothing to keep him warm. Martino cut his cloak in half and gave one piece to the man. That night, he dreamed of Christ wearing the other half of the cloak. When he woke up, he found his cloak restored. The sun broke through the clouds and shone so brightly that Martino no longer suffered from the cold. He proclaimed his Christian faith and would eventually become a saint.
This time of year is a closing point in agriculture. The crops have been harvested and good food is abundant. Vino novello, or new wine, is often drunk in celebration.
It reaches the market just a few weeks after the grapes are harvested, thanks to carbonic maceration. Whole clusters of grapes go into a sealed container filled with CO2. That oxygen-free environment allows a rapid extraction of color without tannins. The wines are fruity, soft and light in color and alcohol. Tradition says the first vino novello should be opened on the feast day of San Martino to mark the end of the farming season. Its light body pairs well with many of the treats below.
Every region has its own way to celebrate San Martino.
In Sicily, San Martino means viscottu or sammartini, crunchy fennel-flavored cookies soaked in sweet Moscato before eating. They can also be filled with sweet ricotta and dusted with powdered sugar. In Sardinia, look for papassinos: crunchy, diamond-shaped cookies studded with raisins and dusted with powdered sugar.
On the heel of the Italian boot, Martina Franca celebrates its patron saint with San Martino delle Sementi, locally Sammartène de le semmìnte, meaning "Saint Martin of the Seeds." Sacred and secular events fill the days, including a large fair and fireworks. Butchers prepare plenty of brodo, porchetta and capocollo. In the wider Salento area, look for pittule, fried bites of dough stuffed with dried tomatoes, capers, anchovies and pitted olives.
Abruzzo has pizza coi quattrini, or "pizza with money." As with holiday treats from other cultures, a coin is hidden in the crispy pizza and brings good luck to whoever finds it in their piece. This crunchy, cross-hatched pizza is also called pizza scima, or "silly pizza," because it is made without yeast. It is served with savory favorites like roast sausages, cured meats and hard cheeses.
The name pizza di San Martino covers many treats across the country. In Molise, it is an enriched bread similar to panettone, studded with raisins and citrus zest. In Lazio, it is a simple long pizza, similar in shape to pizza alla pala, topped with only olive oil and black pepper and ideal with vino novello.
In Marche, expect grilled pork, roasted chestnuts and vin brulée, or mulled wine, on the San Martino table. In the north, goose is the main dish in Friuli, Veneto, Lombardia and Emilia-Romagna. In Alto Adige, speck or other smoked meats are added to the goose dish.
Goose is especially tied to San Martino. Legend says that after he was elected Bishop of Tours, he did not want the position and tried to hide. The noisy geese scampering around the farm led the villagers straight to him, and he had to take the job.
Venice keeps a family-focused celebration. Children dressed in cloaks and crowns march through streets and squares, chanting rhymes and banging on pots and pans. This is batter sanmartin, or "beat San Martin," and the children ask shopkeepers for money or sweets. Traditionally, the money buys the most spectacular treat of San Martino: an ornately decorated cookie shaped like a knight on horseback with a sword. Bakeries top these short-crust pastry cookies with icing, candies and chocolates.
Sweet or savory, there is a traditional San Martino treat for every table. Find some at your local Eataly, through local delivery or online.
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