Parmigiano Reggiano® DOP: Origins and Production

You have probably eaten Parmigiano Reggiano® dozens of times, grated over pasta. Here is how the world-renowned cheese is made and where it comes from.

Known as the "King of Cheese," Parmigiano Reggiano is a category all its own. It is not to be mistaken for the Italian-sounding names on many labels, which denote imitations.

A cheese with a long memory

Benedictine monks were looking for a way to preserve their precious milk for longer, and in the process they made cheese. They eventually developed a technique for an aged cheese, and Parmigiano Reggiano® DOP was born.

The hard, granular cheese quickly became popular throughout Italy and Europe, and it was soon traded to surrounding regions and countries. The first recorded mention dates to 1254 A.D., when a noblewoman from Genova traded her house for a yearly supply of 53 pounds of the cheese. We don't blame her.

In the 14th century, Giovanni Boccaccio mentioned it in the Decameron. Describing an imaginary town called Bengodi, he wrote of "a mountain of grated Parmesan cheese" where "dwell folk that do nothing else but make macaroni and ravioli."

Where it's made

Today the recipe and technique differ very little from those of centuries ago. Production is allowed only in five provinces:

• Parma
• Reggio-Emilia
• Modena
• Bologna (left of the Reno River)
• Mantova (right of the Po River)

Approximately 292 small dairy farms produce more than 4 million wheels per year, shipped throughout Italy and the world.

How it's made

Parmigiano Reggiano® DOP has a short ingredient list: raw, unpasteurized cow's milk, salt and rennet, a natural enzyme produced by calves. Each wheel still takes a lot of time, passion and expertise. It takes roughly 145 gallons of milk to make one.

1. Milking. The day starts very early with the milking of grass and hay-fed dairy cows. The fresh whole milk is mixed with naturally skimmed milk from the evening before.
2. Heating and curdling. The part-skim milk is pumped into copper-lined vats and slowly heated. Copper lets the cheesemaker control the temperature more precisely. Rennet is added, and the milk curdles and separates into curd and whey.
3. Breaking the curd. After 10 to 12 minutes, the cheesemaker breaks the curd into tiny grain-like pieces with a giant whisk. The mixture is heated to about 130°F, and the curd settles for 45 to 60 minutes.
4. Dividing. Two to three cheesemakers lift the curd out of the vat in a large cheesecloth, away from the remaining whey. A batch makes enough curd for just two wheels, so it is cut in half with a rounded knife. Each half gets its own cheesecloth before it leaves the vat.
5. Molding. The cloth-wrapped curd goes into round molds, closed with a spring-powered buckle to hold the shape. A weight goes on top, and the cheese rests while the liquid drains.
6. Marking the rind. A customized plastic belt is wrapped around the wheel for about two days. It carries the Parmigiano Reggiano® DOP name printed over and over, the factory's number, and the month and year of production, and it imprints them on the rind.
7. Brining. Once the cheese is hard enough to stand on its own, each wheel goes into a brine bath, a room full of warm salted water, for about 20 days. This gives the cheese its distinctive salty flavor.
8. Aging. The wheels rest on wooden shelves for a minimum of 12 months, and up to 24, 36 or even more than 60 months. Every seven days they are rotated and cleaned, by hand or by a special machine. The final wheel weighs about 85 pounds.

At 12 months, the Consorzio — the governing body that regulates the standards of Parmigiano Reggiano® DOP — inspects each wheel. The representative taps it and checks for cracks or holes. A wheel that passes gets the stamp of approval, literally, and earns the title Parmigiano Reggiano® DOP.

How it tastes

Parmigiano Reggiano® DOP tastes sharp and complex. Its intense savoriness is balanced by fruity and nutty notes. The texture is slightly gritty, thanks to crystals that become more pronounced as the cheese ages.

Age changes both flavor and texture. A 12-month cheese is lighter in flavor and smoother. A 36-month cheese has more complex flavors, a stronger salty kick and a more granular texture.

No two wheels are exactly the same. It is an artisan product made all year round, so it varies with the season and the day.

Back to the table

Parmigiano Reggiano® DOP is excellent on its own as a snack or antipasto. Grate it over pasta and risotto, shave it atop salads, or stir it into soups, broths and sauces to add depth of flavor.