Vini Friulani

Friuli Venezia Giulia is a small region in northeastern Italy, and it produces more than half of Italy's white wines. Its reds are gaining in fame too.

Where the wine comes from

The landscape runs from mountain peaks to coastal stretches. Warm sea breezes, chilly high-altitude nights and diverse mineral-rich soil create the perfect terroir. The mild climate gives the grapes a long growing season that balances sugar and acidity. Across the region the soil is limestone, marl and sandstone, which adds mineral depth to whites and reds alike.

Locals use native and international varietals and combine traditional techniques with modern technology to make pure, aromatic wines. The region has more than a dozen DOC and DOCG zones. Two are especially acclaimed: Collio and Colli Orientali, adjacent areas that follow the border of Slovenia.

Vineyards in the DOC Carso, above the Trieste Gulf, grow on bare rocky surfaces and red soil with little water. The grapes have distinct character, but it takes talented winemakers who know the land and understand the difficult climate to turn them into some of the finest wines in the country.

White wines

Friulian whites are typically refreshing, with a delicate fragrance and floral flavor. The signature white is Friulano (formerly known as Tocai Friulano), a native varietal that ranges from light and crisp to rich and full-bodied. This grape alone accounts for nearly a third of the region's vineyard plantings.

The region is also known for other native varietals: Malvasia Istriana, Ribolla Gialla and Verduzzo. Admirable outsiders join them, including Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco and the ever-popular Pinot Grigio.

Local wineries have begun to revive neglected varietals, like the legendary Picolit. Around 1800 it ranked as one of Europe's finest sweet wines, favored by the Habsburgs and other royal families. Yields are low, but Picolit has enjoyed a comeback.

Small wineries and estates make most of these wines, and they are distributed across the world. Many producers consider their whites too pure and linear to benefit from aging in oak. A growing number of exceptions gain depth and complexity from blending, oak aging and other artistic touches.

Red wines

Reds are not the stars of Friulian wine, but they are excellent. They tend to be light, fruity and best enjoyed young. The world-famous Merlot is the most widely planted varietal in the region, and the natives shine too. They run from tangy Refosco to bold Schioppettino, and many of the best come from Colli Orientali, the DOC zone in the foothills of the Dolomites.

Franconia and Tazzelenghe are rare and odd, yet they make distinctive reds. Pignolo is rarer still.

Taste Friuli Venezia Giulia without leaving town at your local Eataly.