Counting Sheep in Toscana

Chianina cattle and goats are known across the world, but in Toscana sheep reign supreme. You can't spend a day in the region without spotting a flock. Since the days of the Etruscans, sheep have been a staple of Tuscan life, providing wool, meat and — most importantly — milk. Sheep's milk makes rich, flavorful cheeses that run from sweet and delicate to nutty and intense, depending on how long they age.

What is transumanza?

Traditionally, Tuscan sheep grazed close to home in the warmer months. In late fall, before the winter storms, they were guided south to the Maremma, an area along the Mediterranean coast where the sea breeze warms the hills. Shepherds traveled with their flocks past cities and across the countryside, living a truly nomadic life. In spring, sheep and shepherd headed back to the higher lands and the cycle began again.

This seasonal migration, dating back to the 1400s in Pisa, is known as tranzumanza, or "crossing the land."

Why it nearly disappeared

Today, tranzumanza is nearly extinct. In the late 1800s, as battles besieged Italy, farmers retreated from their pastures to the safety of walled cities. The tradition faded slowly, and the old cheesemaking techniques faded with it.

The revival of ancient cheese customs

Lately, ancient cheese customs have been coming back in Italy and across the world. Credit goes to DOP (protected designation of origin) and other Italian food consortia, which put renewed value on how and where authentic products are made. Every step counts, from where the sheep graze to how long the cheese ages, and each one shapes the flavor of the finished formaggi.

Sheep's milk cheese at Eataly

Eataly supports this revival. Our cheesemongers work with small-scale Tuscan producers and distributors, sourcing countless varieties of pecorino and other sheep's milk cheeses for each store's counter. Stop by, talk cheese with the team and bring home a taste of transumanza.