The Milk Behind the Cheese

Many factors shape the flavors and textures of formaggi, but one element gives a cheese its distinct character: the type of milk. It explains the meaning behind mozzarella di bufala and pecorino, and why one cheese is tangier than another.

Just as different grape varieties make different wines, different animal milks make different cheeses. Here is what each one brings to the board.

Cow milk

Versatile and earthy, cow milk is the most common milk for cheese around the world. Its flavor depends heavily on the cow's diet and breed: cows that graze on grass throughout their lives give grassier milk and cheeses. Across Italy, cow milk makes a wide variety of cheeses, from nutty Parmigiano Reggiano DOP to piquant provolone. In the U.S., cow milk cheddar is the familiar strong taste.

Staff picks: Parmigiano Reggiano DOP Cravero Vacche Rosse, Grana Padano DOP

Pairing suggestions: Versatility is the point, so when in doubt, pair the cheese according to the tradition of its region. Parmigiano Reggiano DOP and Grana Padano DOP go well with light, bubbly wines such as Prosecco or Lambrusco, which help cleanse the palate.

Buffalo milk

Luscious and sweet, buffalo milk contains twice as much fat as cow milk. This pearly white latte comes from water buffalo, a common species in Italy that is different from the bison native to the United States. Creamy with a delicate tang, it is commonly used to make Mozzarella di Bufala DOP and burrata in southern Italy.

Staff picks: Quadrello di Bufala, Mozzarella di Bufala DOP

Pairing suggestions: Serve soft buffalo milk cheeses over toasted bread with extra virgin olive oil and a sprinkle of sea salt. Pair them with a mineral, floral white wine or a light and fruity red.

Sheep milk

Sheep milk is significantly higher in fat and protein than cow milk, with flavors that range from opulent and tangy to buttery and nutty. The most common Italian sheep milk cheeses are ricotta and a variety of aged pecorino (pecorino means "little sheep" in Italian).

Staff picks: Pecorino Sardo, Pecorino Romano

Pairing suggestions: Spread fresh sheep milk cheese on toasted crostini and pair it with a refreshing, crisp white wine. Grate aged, saltier cheeses over pasta, or serve them alone with a dark, fruity red wine.

Goat milk

Thanks to a diet of thorny grasses and brambles, goats give milk with grassy, bright flavors and a signature tang. In Italy, caprino takes its name from capra, or "goat," and comes as caprino fresco, fresh goat milk cheese, or caprino stagionato, aged goat milk cheese.

Staff picks: Cacciotta, sheep milk ricotta, Caprino Fresco

Pairing suggestions: Use it to stuff meats and vegetables, or spread it on freshly sliced bread. Goat milk cheeses pair wonderfully with fruit, sweet jams and zippy, young white wines.

How to identify the milk in your cheese

With Italian cheeses, the name almost always tells you the milk. Learn to spot these words:

• Bufala = buffalo milk (Mozzarella di Bufala)
• Pecorino = sheep milk (Pecorino Romano)
• Caprino = goat milk (Caprino Fresco)

If the name has none of these words, the cheese is likely made from cow milk or a blend of different milks.

The animal is only part of the story. Where it lived, how it was raised, what it ate and how the cheese artisan chose to make the cheese all matter. There are hundreds of cow milk cheeses, each with a distinct flavor profile. Parmigiano Reggiano DOP, for example, is produced only in certain areas of Italy, from certain cows on a certain diet. A cheese made in its style somewhere else might be really delicious, but it would not taste exactly like the real Parmigiano Reggiano DOP.

Visit the Salumi & Formaggi counters at your local Eataly to talk cheese with the cheesemongers, or shop cured meats and cheeses online.